{"id":3549,"date":"2022-04-11T17:22:23","date_gmt":"2022-04-11T15:22:23","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/pmk.razvija.se\/?page_id=3549"},"modified":"2022-05-11T14:57:13","modified_gmt":"2022-05-11T12:57:13","slug":"lance-making-techniques","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/zbirke.pokrajinskimuzejkoper.si\/en\/lance-making-techniques\/","title":{"rendered":"Lance making techniques"},"content":{"rendered":"

In terms of technique, the Koper collection mostly has bobbin, needle, crocheted, filet, machine-made and mixed lace:<\/p>\n

Bobbin lace<\/strong><\/p>\n

Making lace on a pillow (called a punkelj, bula <\/em>or tombolo <\/em>in Slovenia)<\/em> with small wooden spindles or bobbins developed in the 16th century in Germany. The bobbins, originally made from animal bone (wealthy town ladies used ivory bobbins), were wound with linen, cotton or silk thread which formed the design. The lacemakers would first hold the oval pillow in their lap, then attach it to a surface, and later place it in a basket. To make lace, you also need a pattern with a design and pins.<\/p>\n

\"Lacemaking
Lacemaking pillow, 19th century<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

Needle lace<\/strong><\/p>\n

The basic principle of making needle lace is to draw threads from the fabric and then stitch the edges of the resulting gap. Several threads can be drawn at the same time to create a net base in the fabric, and these remaining warp and weft threads are then stitched over with a needle to create various designs and motifs. In Istrian traditional women\u2019s costume, needle lace takes the form of a decorative insert, at first on the cuffs and later along the entire length of the sleeves. The most common motifs on the cuffs include vegetation ornaments, whereas the sleeve inserts often feature, along with various meshwork, strings of connected circles, called \u0161pice na kule <\/em>in Istria. Needle lace on the garments of Istrian dress is always framed by contrasting black or brown bands embroidered with single or, more frequently, double chain stitches.<\/p>\n

\"Sleeve
Sleeve flap, part of woman \u0343s traditional costume, 19th century<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Crocheted lace<\/strong><\/p>\n

In the Slovenian lands, crocheted lace became popular at the turn of the 20th century. It is made with a crochet hook using white or coloured crochet thread, mostly cotton. Initially, pointy borders and airy lace inserts were only used to embellish bed linen and kitchen canvas articles, later underwear, and later still women\u2019s and also men\u2019s clothing, which eventually became fully crocheted products.<\/p>\n

\"Crocheted
Crocheted lace, sample of Augustinian schoolgirls, Koper, end of the 19th century<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Filet lace<\/strong><\/p>\n

In the late 19th century, there was a growing fashion trend for filet or net lace as part of home textiles. First, a net was crafted by hand with a special needle, gauging stick and thread, and stretched on a frame. Then the net was worked with a needle and thread using various stitches to create a design. Filet lace was used as a finishing border or ornamental insert on bed and kitchen linen or room textiles.<\/p>\n

\"Filet
Filet lace, Venice<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Machine-made lace<\/strong><\/p>\n

Machine-made lace spread gradually from the 19th century onwards as the bobbinet machines developed. These machines could weave thin nets \u2013 tulle<\/em> \u2013 as a base for handmade lace designs.\u00a0 Bobbinet tulle is made from silk, cotton and synthetic fibres. In the 1830s, bobbinet machines were complemented with the jacquard system, which enabled lace to be manufactured entirely by machine.<\/p>\n

From the late 19th century, and particularly in the 20th century, machine-made lace and embroidery became increasingly used to decorate commercially ready-made clothing, linen and home textiles. Their affordability meant that they were no longer limited to the upper classes, but could be enjoyed by the working class and rural population as well.<\/p>\n

\"Headdress,
Headdress, wedding veil attachement, late 19th or early 20th century<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

In terms of technique, the Koper collection mostly has bobbin, needle, crocheted, filet, machine-made and mixed lace: Bobbin lace Making lace on a pillow (called a punkelj, bula or tombolo in Slovenia) with small wooden spindles or bobbins developed in the 16th century in Germany. The bobbins, originally made from animal bone (wealthy town ladies<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"parent":0,"menu_order":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"","meta":{"inline_featured_image":false},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/zbirke.pokrajinskimuzejkoper.si\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/3549"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/zbirke.pokrajinskimuzejkoper.si\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/zbirke.pokrajinskimuzejkoper.si\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/page"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zbirke.pokrajinskimuzejkoper.si\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zbirke.pokrajinskimuzejkoper.si\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=3549"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/zbirke.pokrajinskimuzejkoper.si\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/3549\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":3852,"href":"https:\/\/zbirke.pokrajinskimuzejkoper.si\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/3549\/revisions\/3852"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/zbirke.pokrajinskimuzejkoper.si\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=3549"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}